Detoxing in Southeast Asia

I remember watching a news story on colonics and thinking, "crazy people". That was quite a number of years ago. And detox? NOT eating? No way. Never say never, they say and it is true. Little did I know that I too would embark on this cleanse & detox journey. From 2011 to 2013, I visited Absolute Sanctuary, COMO Shambhala Estate, and Kamalaya, all located in Southeast Asia, only a short flight from Singapore. I am often asked which would I recommend. Here are some of my thoughts.

The short answer is “it depends.” It comes down to what you are looking for. I enjoyed all three, each perfect for what I needed at the time. I entered each one with a very different state of mind and health. I will share with you here my personal experience and thoughts and perhaps something will call to you.

Absolute Sanctuary

In Singapore, Absolute (now defunct) is known for yoga. It’s true of Absolute Sanctuary. They have a fantastic yoga program. The teachers are experienced and watchful of our poses. They offer a wide variety of classes and have detox yoga for detox guests to enhance their stay. Detox yoga is a lot of twists to help the organs work better, cleanse better. It’s more gentle, though not all easy, especially if you are a beginner yogi or having a tough time detoxing (or both). The yoga studio has floor to ceiling windows facing into the greenery. Starting the day with pranayama and yoga there is really beautiful. It sets the tone of calm and peace for the day.

If you are an advanced or regular yoga practitioner, you may want to try the ashtanga class. It’s pretty tough when you are new to yoga, ashtanga, and fasting. That much I’ll tell you. And having taken the class, it’s pretty hardcore. People come to Absolute just for the class, unlike the detox yoga class, which is mostly attended by in-house guests.

7-Day Detox

For details of the detox program, it’s best to check out the Absolute Sanctuary website. I went near the end of 2011 for a 7-day detox and extended my stay. Partially because I didn’t lose ANY weight and was a bit depressed. This was my first detox and I was pressured into thinking that weight loss was how I measured progress and success. I was relieved that doing the detox was so easy; following their elimination and pre-detox guidelines was a good thing. Being a non-meat eater and non-coffee drinker and in a light frame of mind helps.

So the question people most want to know – what is a fast?

During my fast, I only had clear soups and juices. You could have unlimited bowls of this vegetarian soup. Surprisingly, it was delicious. You could always add sea salt, lime, or cayenne pepper for more taste.

There is a relaxation area in the restaurant, where you can hang out on comfy couches, sip your soup, read or chat with other guests. You may think – oh, no! How can I not eat when everyone else is eating? The thing is – yes, the food at Absolute Sanctuary is REALLY good (you’ll have some when you break your fast), it’s not aromatic like a lot of Asian food is. So you won’t be sipping your soup, smelling hunger-inducing foods. You can always take your soup back to your room, or sip poolside. (I did find out that the staff cafeteria did serve local food and you can smell it if you are at the gym! So don’t book in any gym sessions around meal times.)

Hydrotherapy Treatments

I had treatments every day, including colonics. The wellness therapists were really great – patient and the treatments, fantastic. They use the open system and so it’s a little messier. I liked that I had control of the process and I also liked being left alone in the room, to deal with the newness and the strangeness of the experience.

This was my first ever hydrotherapy session and I was quite nervous about tit. How uncomfortable will it be? Having all that water inside. Will I hold it long enough? God, what will come out? Because of my worries, I declined their offer of a tummy massage. I didn’t want anyone touching me so I declined.

The first three sessions were tough! In the end, I did say yes to the stomach massage and I was glad. They did help; they were relaxing. Look at me, chatting to the therapist massaging me, reading magazine, doing it like a pro.  Not embarrassing. Not painful.

Resort Rooms

Absolute Sanctuary has different room options – I chose the deluxe sea view, with a bathtub. It did take a few visits from the maintenance crew to get the hot water going and it was worth the fuss. Having a nightly bath was a fantastic part of my detox experience. Don’t forget to bring your brush for some dry brushing.

Verdict

I had a great time at Absolute Sanctuary, happy that my first cleanse experience went so well. Being in Koh Samui, lounging around poolside, getting massage, who can complain? It was not a bad way to lose my detox-virginity.

In the end I lost 500g. Here’s the thing, detoxing is not about weight loss, though that often happens. For me, my detox success was measured by how I was relaxed. I had good energy levels. I felt light. I had great treatments. I cleansed out the insides. I would say it was a good detox, which is about more than improving the physical functions of the body.

For those who don’t want to or can’t fast, they have different detox programs to cater to you, such as living foods. A few people I met were there for their candida. Everyone staying was in such a great mood – certainly the sunny tropical weather helped, even if they were not really eating. Many of the guests hailed from northern latitudes – I believe Absolute Sanctuary markets heavily to places such as the UK.

What I liked about Absolute Sanctuary

It is a quiet and small resort, which I liked. The pool is in the middle of everything and so easy to get to. It’s right by the juice bar so you can hang out poolside all day then pop over for your juice or for a treatment. You cannot get lost. The learning curve of what your program includes is quite flat and in no time, you’ll just be flowing with it. No stress, which is a big part of a detox.

The therapists were good. The staff friendly. The yoga good. The Moroccan theme in the rooms was interesting and not overdone. It also reminded me of my honeymoon and made me feel like my husband was with me in spirit. The room has WIFI, if you need to work though in hindsight a total detox, including a digital one, would have rounded off the experience. The seaview was breathtaking, especially with the pool lit at night.

What wasn’t so hot about Absolute Sanctuary

There was massive confusion at check-out, because I had extended my stay. Their lack of English fluency resulted in some communication blocks which made the whole process much much longer and unplesant. It was  frustrating, and it only got sorted when I pointed out that I was going to miss my plane and the next flight would not be for another few days.

I understand that English can be hit and miss. I am in a foreign country after all and it would be arrogant of me to expect otherwise. Because I do not understand Thai and they could not explain it to me, I could not tell what the problem was. Were the staff on duty new and unfamiliar with dealing with non-routine processes? It was a terrible way to wrap up such a great experience. At the end of the day, this was a minor hiccup that does not diminish my detox and can be avoided by settling the bill earlier.

COMO Bali

COMO Shambhala Estate, Bali

COMO Shambhala

The COMO Shambhala Estate is outside of Ubud in Bali and feels like another world. I went end of February 2012. I was in the middle of a personal crisis and needed a quiet place to be alone and think. I am not sure if it was low season then or not though I don’t remember seeing many of the other guests, only in yoga class or at the hydrotherapy and vitality pool. The villa I stayed in was beautifully appointed, at once luxurious and cozy. I spent a lot of time in that wonderful bed thinking about my life, relaxing, and reading. I have never slept as well in a hotel as I did there. I also spent a lot of time in the deep tub, just floating in my Neptunian dreams. Three villas shared a pool, which I pretty much had to myself. It felt like it was my own residence, with my own personal butler.

The whole experience was amazing. The food was perfection. The body treatments heavenly. I remember feeling so relaxed and so pampered. I noted that while many massage therapists work on your upper and lower body separately, the ladies at COMO would use these fabulously long firm strokes that went diagonally shoulder to foot and it felt so much more integrative and harmonious. I can still remember how delighted I was as I followed her hands down my body to find her shift seamlessly over to the other side. A little surprise. Another trick up their sleeve. A small memorable detail. I have never been massaged that way and I wonder why more people do not use this technique. It feels so amazing, a sensation that I can’t quite verbalize though I can still feel it, even now years later.

That first massage made quite an impression. My appointment was late, with the sun already dipping, perhaps the last one of the day. I arrived with the nocturnal creatures waking from their slumber, calls new to my ears. There was a gentle breeze through the trees that surrounded the spa. Tingles. Tingles was what I felt. Given how numb I had been feeling for days, this aliveness was most welcomed. This memory of that night lives beyond words and imagery, now more in dreamy realms, ethereal and numinous.

While I was in Bali, my two dogs were being looked after by my husband and I missed them so, especially with everything that was going on. COMO has a resident dog though I doubt he is still with them now. Sandy was already elderly then. He was a Golden Retriever and true to the breed, a sweet sweet creature. He spent some time with me in my villa and we went on a few walks around the estate. His company was deeply comforting. He was even at reception when I checked out. It was quite a farewell, to wave goodbye to him and my personal butler as if I were leaving home for a trip. That is the feel at COMO, like your own home, a grand affair fully staffed by gardeners, chefs, cleaners, personal health consultants, massage therapists, and a dog.

When I was not sleeping, floating in the tub or pool, doing yoga or hydrotherapy, I was exploring the beautiful luscious grounds. At times, it felt like I was the only person in the whole world and the trees were gently leading me through, with the earth cradling my every step. Barefoot on soft moss and grass. Hand on bark and stone. Birds calling out. The rush of the river just out of earshot. It is simply indescribable, an encounter and experience that I would prefer to keep for myself.

I made COMO my retreat those few days, a sanctuary to hold my fragile heart in my shaking hands. It was my cocoon, my wombspace. If you ever do need such a place, COMO is it. I was looked after, in the fine details, and never intrusive. If you wish to venture out, as I did, the hotel can arrange a car for you. I spent half a day in Ubud for more organic raw food and beautiful smoothies and bought myself a mala for mantras. On another day, I visited the temple for water purification.

The time I spent at COMO was special to me, during a very difficult period in my life. It was exactly what I needed. The space, the quiet, nourishing clean food, pampering, moving at my own speed, and cuddles. If you want more information, here is something I wrote earlier about my stay at COMO, an article which became a guest post of sorts on the COMO website.

Kamalaya

My stay at Kamalaya was another special time for me. It was a birthday gift from my husband. We had been living separately in a complicated and entangled emotional mess since sometime 2012 and I became a single dog-mother to two senior dogs. These few days away meant that my time was my own again. I have only respect, compassion, and empathy for single parents, especially those living overseas without the emotional, financial, and physical support of family.

I was delighted by the idea of this gift. He thought it would be relaxing. He has been a huge fan of Kamalaya since his visit a few years back. I wrote more about my stay at Kamalaya here.

Kamalaya is also a beautiful resort sanctuary. Located in Koh Samui it was built around an ancient Buddhist monk’s cave. Bring bug repellant if you plan to go. It is quite an experience.

My husband made all the arrangements – thank you. My stay was in a villa, plenty of room for me to stretch out. It was strange sleeping alone without my dogs and having to go outside for a pee in the outdoor bathroom. Do get additional coils and light them, if you are tasty to mosquitoes.

Kamalaya’s menu is amazing. Based on the principle of Food is Medicine, the food they serve is plant-based, fresh, and organic. Everything I could eat was labelled. I thought, if only I can cut and dice all my veggies like this, my diet would surely improve a hundredfold. Preparation is the key! To strengthen my resolve for a productive cleanse, I decided to sit by myself to eat, rather than at the communal table. It wasn’t long before I made friends, eventually sitting with them at the communal table. Surprisingly listening to them talk about all the delicious dishes and desserts that were off-limits to me did not leave me drooling and pining. Sitting alone, sticking to my detox diet, paid off.

What was good about Kamalaya

It is a beautiful setting, breathtaking really. The landscape of streams, jungle, ponds, and hills not only brings you back into the fold, you can also find your own special spot to spend time.

Everyone was very courteous and helpful, Thai hospitality. The variety and the quality of food make you forget you are on a comparatively restricted diet. I was never hungry and I never felt that I was eating the same thing again. I could go on about the food, though I think you get the idea that a detox diet is nourishing and satisfying at Kamalaya. It is also good to remember that not everyone is on a cleanse program. Some are there just for relaxation so if this is a problem, I would suggest skipping the communal table, at least initially.

The wellness and medical staff are trained in a number of disciplines, including Traditional Chinese Medicine, Ayurveda, and conventional medicine. I appreciate the holistic approach. There was also a lot to do, aside from all the treatments. Meditating in the cave. Walking down to the beach. Swimming or relaxing in the pools. Qigong, yoga, and meditation. They have visiting practitioners who offer all sorts of holistic and wellness programs.

What wasn’t so great about Kamalaya

Perhaps it was because they were so busy – there were a lot of people there – I had difficulty getting my questions answered. I had some concerns about my colonics, which were seriously uncomfortable (read more and see my note on privacy issues in the other article). I ended up forgoing my last appointment, which was disappointing especially since colonics were unavailable in Singapore. I felt that having someone follow up mid-visit would have improved the quality of the detox program by making any necessary dietary and treatment adjustments.


I visited these three places between late 2011 and 2013. If nothing has changed, I would recommend all three. Which one you choose depends on your wellness needs, budget, and lifestyle preference. Do you want to be by the beach? In the forest? Near a town for a day out or perhaps some cultural or spiritual outings? Do you want a more regimented program?

Whatever you choose, it is important to properly prepare by eliminating or at least minimizing meat, alcohol, and caffeine in the week before. Set intentions around what you want. Give yourself the flexibility and have the humour to enjoy what happens. Include a digital detox and do not be surprised if certain emotions surface. A detox is far beyond the diet or the treatment. It is a light peaceful state of mind-body-spirit that we are seeking.

June 19, 2014

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