Madrid was the last stop of my Spain trip in July 2013. I loved this place, with its broad boulevards, abundance of museums, and churros. Plus the shopping was fun and rewarding. It also felt less touristy and more relaxed than Barcelona. Like I missed Sagrada Família in Barcelona, I didn’t get to Prado Museum, though I did make it to Reina Sofía National Museum and Art Center.
Hop On Hop Off
One of the easiest ways to see a new city, for an intro, overview, and orientation, is on a hop on hop off bus. Sometimes at home, I just like riding the bus to the end of the line, just to see the city.
Some of the sights we passed included Madrid’s first and biggest train station, Atocha, and Cibeles Palace.
The station building, renewed after being destroyed by fire, opened in 1892. 100 years later, it also became home to a tropical garden, along with restaurants and cafés. What a wonderful way to wait for your train, whether it is local or high-speed long-distance. This is actually where we started our stay in Madrid. The trip from Pamplona clocked in around three hours.
Cibeles Palace, considered one of Madrid’s first modernist buildings, is a highly recognizable landmark in the city. Behind the fountain, it’s where the iconic streets Alcalá and Paseo de Prado come together. Originally built as a post office and called Palacio de Comunicaciones, its construction took over a decade and the cost was tripled the initial quote. Out of three proposals, ironically, it was the cheapest one that was chosen.
After its incarnation as a post office, it became a government building in 2003. Since 2011, after the building was modernized, it’s also been opened to the public as a cultural space, CentroCentro. Locals and visitors can now enjoy drinks and meals, the library, exhibitions, and just surfing the web on the free wi-fi.
El Retiro Park
El Retiro is a gigantic park near the Prado Museum. People were jogging by as we meandered through the park. Blue rowboats dotted the beautiful man-made lake as friends sat together, some playing music. Once the relaxation grounds of the Spanish royalty, it’s been open to the public since the 1700s. Fountains, artwork, the all-glass Crystal Palace, the circular rose gardens, and a walkway lined with statues of past royalty. It’s easy to imagine eras bygone, stepping through the veils of time.
Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía
Named for Queen Sofía, this museum houses contemporary art and forms the Golden Triangle of Art, along with Prado Museum and Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum. Its collection is primarily Spanish art, with inclusions of international masters such as Vasily Kandinsky and Diego Rivera. Since I skipped the Picasso Museum in Barcelona (long lines!), I wanted to check out some of his work. This is where you can see Guernica.
Tapas & Churros
Food ! So much to sample. A marketplace I stumbled upon – Mercado San Miguel – offered a wide range of food. This historic building is nouveau art and is over 100 years old. Originally a wholesale market, it’s now a gastronomic destination, where you can sample Spain’s regional cuisines.
The small-sized dishes meant room for a diverse selection. Roaming through the marketplace, you see oysters, cheese, olives, fruits, seafood, wines, coffees, and a cornucopia of sweets.
A place I did look for was San Gines, Madrid’s oldest chocolatería. Because, churros. The very first time I tried these delicious Spanish “donuts” was in LA, by the beach, with the Gypsy Kings playing. Good times. Talk about a sensory memory.
When good, churros are served hot, spongey on the inside, crispy on the outside, and sprinkled with sugar. In Spain, we dip these in hot chocolate thick as custard. Sooooo, so delicious.
Near Plaza Mayor in the heart of Madrid and Puerto del Sol, San Gines dates back to 1894. Don’t let any queues deter you; the churros are well worth the wait, and looking for it. Grab a seat at the marbled tables amongst the green wood panels and dig in. We went in the afternoon; however, it’s opened 24/7/365. All the time. What a treat.
Flamenco
For flamenco, it was off to Corral de la Moreria. Dinner and show. Seated close to the stage, I was awed by the ladies’ footwork, artistry, and the musicians. It wasn’t until seeing The Paco de Lucia Project at the Chan Centre that I truly came to appreciate its origins and its meaning. The pre-show talk was educational, walking us back into history of how flamenco evolved from the Gypsies to the tablaos and beyond.
Going back to 1956, Corral de la Moreria is considered to be the most famous tablao, having presented artists including flamenco choreographer and dancer Manuela Vargas.
They say the best time to visit Madrid is the spring and fall. I was there in July and enjoyed beautiful sunny weather. Coming from the high humidity of Singapore, it was familiar temperatures. Taking it easy, having siestas, and following a loose itinerary made for a relaxing vacation.
Madrid Hop On, Hop Off | El Retiro Park | Reina Sofía Museum | Mercado San Miguel | San Gines | CentroCentro | Corral de la Moreria
