In the last decades of the 1800s, commuter ferries found humble beginnings along the western Norwegian coast and between Hong Kong island and Kowloon. Both the Star Ferry and Hurtigruen became threads in my life, over a span of decades, some 100 years after their maiden voyage.
I’m not known for my sea legs.
If you ask my dad, he’ll tell you all about how as a tiny child I threw up on the Star Ferry crossing Victoria Harbour in Hong Kong. Or that they had to leave some yacht party early because I wouldn’t stop vomiting. I’m treated to a retelling every time I mention getting on a boat of some sort. It’s a narrative I’ve been changing for most of my life.
So he was pretty shocked when he found out we chose Discovery Bay when relocating to Hong Kong in 2008. Or that I booked myself on the famous Hurtigruten.
It took me awhile to get this far. My mom still has a photo of me lying on the piers throwing up, after a delicious meal on a sampan restaurant. In all my permed hair glory.
The Prep Work
While living in Bermuda, I started taking the ferry into work. That helped. The picturesque islands were also easy on the eyes. Living in Discovery Bay, I took the ferry into Central. Except when the winds and seas were choppy. The ferry was easier on my ears than the underground, which was a longer and much less direct way of getting into town. The train was also often unmercifully overpacked.
From Discovery Bay, you can also take the ferry to islands like Mui Wo and Lamma. We’ve done both. Mostly we hiked out to Mui Wo. The boat there was much smaller and no plankways so I had to carry Creamy on and off. People are often surprised how dog-friendly Hong Kong can be!
Practicing Jin Shin Jyutsu Self-Help, I’m sure, strengthened my constitution and dissolved my fears and guilt about getting sick. Nope, those acupressure bracelets never worked and gravol left me drowsy and feeling icky. One of the best and simplest-to-do Jin Shin Jyutsu Self-Help is holding each of your fingers for a few minutes a day. Yeah, easy right?
The Test Drive
Well, not really a test drive. It’s not like I knew I was working towards the Hurtigruten! However, I did go on a couple of cruises. Unlike ferry rides, cruises are longer and you can’t really get off. Not really. What I learned was that I do need a porthole. A balcony is even better.
That time my sister came to visit us in Singapore for Chinese New Year, we booked a last minute cruise with port calls in Penang and Phuket. We actually had to change rooms I was starting to get sick. Having the balcony made an incredible difference! So great to have this upgrade.
I know, from our Mediterranean cruise that I can do calm seas. Big boats on calm seas – even better. Anytime I can get fresh air and the wind in my face, I’m good. So yes to speedboats and jet skis and surf boards, not so much.
Ahoy from the Hurtigruten
I’ve always felt drawn to Scandinavia for some reason. I didn’t know about my connections to Norway through my dad. Growing up all I knew was Dad was in shipping. No details then, and still surprisingly just a few more now.
It was only when I told him about my trip that he offered how his ships came from Norway and he travelled there for business. Later on, I started finding these souvenirs around the house, like this blue vase I’ve always loved.
Going to Scandinavia back in 2015 was pretty last minute. It was quite an open canvas what I could do, seeing I was going solo. I was pulled in several directions, with all kinds of recommendations and advice from friends. Oslo for Gay Pride with my friend. Bergen and the western fjords to stay with her family. Fly over to Iceland then hop onto Greenland. Copenhagen with another friend.
The Lofoten Islands
When I saw photos of the Lofoten Islands, I think I stopped breathing for just a moment it was so breathtaking. I knew that’s where I needed to go.
Northern Norway called me and I answered.
There are a few ways to get to Lofoten from the mainland. You can fly into Leknes, Svolvær, and Harstad/Narvik – Evene airports. Harstad/Narvik – Evene is a couple of hours driving to Svolvær and almost five hours to Reine. First figure out where you want to be.
I flew into Bodø via Oslo from Stockholm, where I had been for a few days. To catch the super early morning ferry, I overnighted in this Arctic city – the capital of Nordland County and where the world’s strongest tidal current is found. Ah, my first Norwegian Midnight Sun. While Bodø isn’t old as a town, signs of human habitation date back 10,000 years.
From Bodø, you can get on the Bodø-Moskenes ferry or the Hurtigruten. Wanting to try both, I chose the ferry to the Lofoten Islands and the Hurtigruen back to the mainland. If you are driving, the ferry is the way to go and it’s best to book a reservation travelling in the summer. The Bodø-Moskenes ferry is about 3.5 hours.
The Hurtigruten
The Hurtigruten’s original route onboard the DS Vesteraalen took passengers and cargo from Trondheim to Hammerfest. Soon, they added Bergen to Kirkenes up north. The locals first used it as a ferry and it supplied remote areas inaccessible by land. Founded in 1893, the Hurtigruten is a Norwegian institution.
Now you can sail aboard the Hurtigruten along the western coast, all the way up to the northernmost point of Europe. Take a Coastal Explorer voyage and go port-to-port, with 34 stops or choose from a variety of longer Explorer voyages. Offerings have certainly expanded over the years, though the cabins are still more functional than luxurious unlike those on what we usually call cruise ships.
Hamnøy to Solvær
After my all-too-brief-and-still-amazing stay in the Lofoten Islands, I took the bus from Hamnøy to Svolvær to board the Hurtigruten for the next stop at Tromsø. Another option was south to Trondheim. I chose Tromsø because of the Midnight Concert at the Arctic Cathedral, the Saami Identity exhibition, and I just wanted to venture further north.
In every walk with Nature one receives far more than he seeks.
John Muir
I wanted to stand small and big in the wild remoteness, in the expansive and openness.
So on June 21 2015, I stood by the road across from Eliassen Rorbuer in beautiful Hamnøy to wait for the bus that would take me to the Lofoten capital of Svolvær. MS Trollfjord was scheduled to depart at 10PM and arrive at Tromsø the following afternoon at 2:30PM. Because of the Midnight Sun, I could leisurely explore Svolvær until checking in, which is about 1/2 hour beforehand at the particular port. I had the whole day. (Info about the bus in Norwegian and English)
A Day in Svolvær
Got more than a backpack? Use the lockers at the information centre. After that, I browsed the shops, checked out the town market, got some souvenirs (a pair of socks for my sister), munched here and there (wondering about the reindeer, whale meat, and other meats I do not eat), and walked over the bridge to the sea.
Boarding the Hurtigruten
What may be good to know – though I’m not saying it’s true for all sailings – is that I had to lug all my bags up several flights of stairs. To be fair, in the “Essential Information” sheet, they recommend not bringing luggage that is “heavier than you can carry yourself.” Since all ships except MS Lofoten have wheelchair accessible cabins, there must be ramps that I didn’t spot.
Travelling on the Hurtigruten is a lot more expensive than the ferry. That’s if you have to book a cabin! Any travelling less than 18 hours, you don’t have to pay for a cabin, and still get breakfast! This is a buffet of cereals, fruit, meats, cheese, eggs, etc, served from 7.30AM to 10.00AM. I found a window seat, with the sun streaming in onto my plate of delicious and filling Norwegian fare.
My Stay Aboard the Hurtigruten
After we checked in and dropped off our luggage in our cabins, I’d say most of us headed up on deck for some food and hot drinks. With the Midnight Sun, the skies were still beautifully illuminated. I’ve mentioned just how beautiful this part of the world is right?
The highlight of this invitation was to be outside when the ship sailed into the very narrow passage of Raftsundet, between the mountains of Trollfjorden. The mouth of the sound is merely 100 metres and the whole passage just 25 km. We didn’t go through it but turned around. Yep, turned around. We were so close I felt like I could just reach over the railings and touch the mountains, waking up the trolls. Love all the troll stories of Norway!
… and that emerald green of the water? Otherworldly.
The 822-passenger ship I was on – MS Trollfjord – was named after this very passage. That felt extra special. With only one night onboard, I opted for a cabin with portholes, giving me sight of amazing landscapes. After coming in from the deck, I did not retire right away. Instead, I roamed the empty ship, looking for some hot tea. You can buy these travel mugs you can refill on your entire trip. I gave it to my dad, who still uses it.
Having been solo for about three weeks and here in northern remoteness, the quiet of a sleeping ship felt comforting. That was the plan, to travel progressively south, and to more and more density. The alternative, I felt, would be too jarring.
My story has come a long way from Hong Kong’s Star Ferry. Like the Hurtigruten which dates back to 1893, the Star Ferry also has quite a history, finding its origins in 1880. Free to seniors, this commuter ferry and tourist draw costs as low as HK$1.50 for kids and HK$2.2 for adults. The US-HKD exchange rate is roughly 7.8. That’s less than 20cents for the kids. So for three dimes, an adult can go traffic-free from Hong Kong to Kowloon for a scenic, historic, and fun little cruise!
If you are in Hong Kong end of November, you’ll find buildings on both sides of the Victoria Harbour lit up with Christmas-themed decorations, switching over to New Year celebrations. And then there is the Symphony of Lights, a free nightly multimedia show since 2004.
My solo sojourn to Scandinavia left an indelible mark. To this day, countless moments remain touchstones, for inspiration, hope, and grace. I’m sure the little child throwing up on boats, cars, trains, and planes would not have imagined travelling so happily alone, exploring such vast beauty and dwelling in the generosity of the northern spirit.
