In the summer of 2015, for one month, I wandered my way through the north. From Singapore, I flew out to Stockholm, via Istanbul, via Copenhagen and landed in the land of the Midnight Sun. With a skeletal itinerary, I planned a few days ahead, listening to a call out of time. This is a series of three articles about this month-long journey - Sweden, Norway, and Denmark.
Norway Itinerary ::
Stockholm to Bodø via Oslo on Scandinavian Airlines
Overnight in Bodø
Early ferry to Moskenes, Lofoten Islands
Rental car to explore the island, based in Hamnøy, Reine (3 nights)
Bus to Svolvær to board the Hurtigruten (1 night) to Tromsø (4 nights)
Bus from Tromsø to Bodø (1 night)
Train from Bodø to Trondheim (1 night)
Flight from Trondheim to Oslo (3 nights)
Flight from Oslo to Copenhagen
I began my trip in Norway in the North. After an overnight stay at Bodø, I ferried over to the Lofoten Islands, one of the most breathtaking places I’ve been to. My base was Hamnøy, close to the famously picturesque village of Reine, in the western part of the islands. The landscapes here are dramatic, bold, all the while quiet in its vastness. I felt I had left the madding crowd and I know my return must be gradual, from such open spaces to the cosmopolitan centres of Oslo then Copenhagen before returning home to Singapore.
In this Part 2 I write about Tromsø, Trondheim, and Oslo. You can read about my Hurtigruten experience here.
Tromsø
City Hotel (4 nights) – Grønnegata 48, 9008 Tromsø, Norway
This beautiful arctic city was the furtherest north I ventured on this trip. I had played with the idea of taking the Hurtigruten all the way up to North Cape, the northernmost point of Europe. Or even popping over to Iceland and Greenland. The trip to Scandinavian was conceived quickly though its form took time to appear. In the beginning, before it materialized, the trip existed in many forms in the dreamscape.
The future belongs to those who believe in the beauty of their dreams.
Eleanor Roosevelt
Known for seeing the Northern Lights, Tromsø also offers more than I had realized. I don’t remember why I chose it, except it was a Hurtigruten stop. I liked it so much though that I extended my stay here, with my base at City Living Hotel. Its central location and its kitchenette and laundry facilities were the deciding factor. Next to a great supermarket, City Living Hotel was also walking distance to town, including the tourism info office. The folks there were very helpful and on their recommendations, I drew up a sketch of a plan for the next few days.
I went on several walks, checked out a few museums and galleries, and had the delicious fish burger down the street from the hotel. It’s been a while now – I think it was called Mathallen. It had a deli as well.
What else did I do?
I had booked a reindeer Sami cultural experience. Even though that was cancelled, I did spot some reindeer on my walk back into town. They were behind chainlink fence and yes, I did poke my lens through for some photos.
I also booked a hike with Active Tromsø. Wilderness guide and sled dog racer Tore Albrigtsen came to pick up me and a couple of guys in town. They were off for an outdoor extravaganza with him and I was off to hang out with his sled dogs. His partner Sandra was my guide that day.
To be honest, I didn’t know what to expect. I could hear them long before I could see them. Dotted on the green were dog houses, each atop its own real estate of wooden flooring. One for two dogs. I met literally every single dog and every single puppy. They were all very affectionate and it was clear they loved attention. It was pretty tough to pick which ones to take on the walk. In the end, I took Britney and Sandra took her sister. Britney was decidedly the less shy. She snuggled against my boots or on my lap while we sat for a tea break.
The Husky Walk was nothing like walking my own dogs! I didn’t expect it to be, of course. I was more like being pulled, or hauled, like I was a sled, I suppose. Makes sense, right? There were a few steeper hills so that was handy, especially since I didn’t have hiking boots. Being June and still too hot, I was too early to see their summer training with wheeled sleds. So that’s an option if you go later or of course there are all kinds of dog sled trips in the winter to see the Northern Lights. Imagine that!
The cable car, a popular tourist activity and an easy way to get a panoramic view of Tromsø, was out of order at the time. Instead, I took the bus to hit up some trails. Serendipitously, literally standing at the crossroads, a lady and her husky came bounding by. I was at a loss as to which direction was the way. Together they led me to the top for a view that did not disappoint and gave me solid directions to return to town. We remain friends three years on, keeping up on Instagram.
In Tromsø, I went to a few art galleries and museums, including Tromsø Museum to see the permanent exhibition on the Sámi people who are indigenous to Arctic Europe. They are perhaps most well-known for being reindeer herders. I was particularly interested in their art, handicrafts, and clothing. Their spirituality and shamanism were also a draw. Their music tradition of the joik, cappella song-chants that mimic nature, is so beautiful. Piercing. Evocative. Enchanting. I got to listen to a sampling at the Arctic Cathedral Midnight Concert. Unfortunately my iPhone died before I managed to transfer the recording. If you get the chance, definitely attend this concert.
Of everything I bought on this trip, my two-book collection called Sámi Stories about the Sámi people is among the most treasured.
More info | Tromsø Chair Lift | Tromsø Arctic-Alpine Botanical Garden | Tromsø Museum | Northern Norway Art Museum | Polar Museum | MS Polstjerna | Active Tromsø | Arctic Cathedral Concerts
Trondheim
Scandic Bakklandet (1 night)
From Tromsø, I took the train to Tronheim, the last stop, for a night’s stay and a day of sightseeing.
I’m not always so good on trains. I was starting to feel off; sitting down with so many people was claustrophobic and so I stood at one of the tables. I met some new friends, including an American travelling to meet her previously unknown Norwegian cousins. Her story was fascinating.
I find it intriguing that you can find branches of your family tree this way. My dad only knows as far back as his own grandparents and we hardly know anything about my mom’s family. I think this uprootedness explains a few things; though not being confined is also liberating.
I also met the British couple I spoke with while waiting to disembark from the Hurtigruten at Tromsø. For our sailing anyway, there was no ramp and it was stairs, and more stairs. Something to know when you are hauling your own heavy bags or mobility is a challenge. I made sure I had packed light so my suitcases were not heavy. The duffle bag on top of my small suitcase configuration just worked better on a ramp, not stairs.
Being so serendipitous, the couple and I decided to meet up for a drink after checking into the Scandic. Our new American friend was MIA and we never did get to catch up as planned.
Trondheim, about 1000 years old, is a university city with a thriving community of artists and art lovers. Famous sights include the Nidaros Cathedral, Gamle Bybro Bridge, the world’s first bike lift, the piers, galleries, and small shops. I stayed at the Scandic Bakklandet, in Trondheim’s old town and from there, I itineraried in all these places into the one day I had.
Cathedrals, panorama view, and the bike lift
After a delicious buffet breakfast the following morning, I headed out on foot down to the piers with their centuries-old buildings and all the small shops and cafés. A leisurely walk found me in coffee houses, art stores, museums, and time to watch several people try the bike lift.
Ah the bike lift. Everyone who tried it seemed determined though some were more successful than others. Finally a young rider showed how it was done. He did make it look very easy and if I hadn’t seen others falling off it, like you might on the rope tow on the ski hill, I would have bought the illusion. If you keep walking up the hill, you arrive at Kristiansten Fortress.
The Kristiansten Fortress is about a 10-minute walk from town. What you get is a 360 degree view of the town. Decommissioned in 1816, the fort was nonetheless used by the Nazis and now, with its dungeon and museum, it is a National Fortifications Heritage site. I went up just for the view and a walk in the green, staying well away from the fortress. If you are sensitive, you can relate why. Hungry? There is also a café – better check the opening hours, especially if you go in the winter.
Gamle Bybro or Old Town Bridge is another tourist site and landmark. Crossing the Nidelva River, it was built in 1681, after the fire of the same year. Providing strategic access, Gamle Bybro was guarded until 1816 . Also called “Lykkens Portal”, meaning “Portal of Happiness”.
This name got me thinking – we are own own portal of happiness and we have guards as well. Sometimes we self-sabotage our own happiness with our beliefs. We also do it by buying into other people’s projections. Like expectations others have for us and about this idea of what happiness is. We cannot and do not want to police what others think. Our responsibility is for what we belief in and our reaction to what others think, say, and do. I think we “guard” our happiness by watching our thoughts and the words we use and actions we take. To focus on what we want, rather than what we want and not spend so much time theorizing it.
The Nidaros Cathedral has got quite a history. As the world’s most northern medieval cathedral and the tomb of Saint Olav, it served as a pilgrimage site for Christians in Northern Europe during the Middle Ages. Traditionally where the new kings of Norway were crowned and now consecrated, this Gothic cathedral took over 200 years to build, with additional work done for another 700 years. It is impressive, with the capacity for seating 1850 people. It is also impressive this dedication to God that people had in the past, this commitment to craftsmanship and sacred work.
By the way, no photos are allowed inside. And it is beautiful. Sign up for the free tours – it’s definitely worth the wait.
Museums
With a fair number of art museums and galleries to choose from, I visited Trondheim Kunstmuseum and Nordenfjeldske Kunstindustrimuseum.
The Trondheim Kunstmuseum for its contemporary works, including lithographs of Edvard Munch. It also has a great museum shop.
The Nordenfjeldske Kunstindustrimuseum for its decorative arts, including the textiles and tapestries of the Swedish-born Hannah Ryggens who used her medium to express decidedly anti-fascist opinions. Her work, made entirely without preparatory sketches and full of humour, metaphor, and symbolism, is engaging and still as relevant. A book on her work from this museum is another treasured souvenir from my trip.
It was also at this museum that the amazing exhibition Paper Dialogues, a collaboration of a Chinese and a Scandinavian artist who tell stories of their cultural dragons through paper cutting.
If I had more time, I’d go eat at Credo, spend more time and take tours at the museums. Trondheim definitely needs more than one day to explore.
More info | Gamle Bybro (Old Town Bridge) | Kristiansten Fortress | Nidaros Cathedral | Trampe Bicycle Lift | Trondheim Kunstmuseum | Nordenfjeldske Kunstindustrimuseum | Hannah Ryggens | Café Ni Muser | Visit Trondheim
Oslo
Grand Hotel (3 nights) – Karl-Johans Gate 31, Oslo
When we are in open space and in nature, we expand. Our energy field expands and we relax into ourselves. I anticipated being back in an urban centre will take some adjustment as I contract. So yes, after being in Northern Norway, Oslo initially felt claustrophobic . A hot bath certainly helped. Hot baths and room service always help.
In Oslo I stayed at Grand Hotel, located in the heart of the city. Just a stone’s throw away from major sights including the Royal Palace. When I went in 2015, the Grand Hotel still had the ladies floor. These were 13 generously appointed rooms for “well-being and luxury”. The year after I was there this famous landmark got a major renovation – to the tune of NKr 160 million or approximately USD 18 million.
The Grand, opened in 1874, is probably Norway’s most famous hotel, hosting major events, leaders, Nobel Peace Prize laureates, and celebrities. It’s where you would have seen Henrik Ibsen, in the armchair reserved for him at Café Oslo. Or the Kristiania-Bohème, including Edvard Munch. Part of the draw to staying at the Grand Hotel is being immersed in this history, though now with so many changes and new wallpaper, perhaps history is in the past.
From this home base, I ventured down Karl Johans the first day and on another day to the water where the Opera House is located. I stopped by art museums including the Ibsen Museum (his home for the last years of his life) and Norwegian National Gallery (where Munch’s Scream is), cafés, furniture stores… It was at the National Gallery’s French Salon that I had the most delicious cod burger EVER. Surrounded by antique sculpture and marbled stucco, I was transported to another time and place.
In Oslo my time in Norway drew to a close. I had not anticipated spending so much time here when I first envisioned my trip to Scandinavian. It had gone through multiple iterations, including seeing this area with my Finnish friend and staying with her in-laws in western Norway.
As I settled into this dream of Scandinavia, I heard the call of Northern Norway. Living in Singapore, I really wanted not to be in the big cities, with throngs of people. I needed – I was pulled – to be in the open spaces, the salty air, and the quiet of the North, to feel alive, to inhabit the beauty of this aliveness.
More info | Visit Oslo | Grand Hotel | Opera House | Ibsen Museum (reopening 2021) | National Gallery (closed in January 2019 for move to new location opening in 2020) | Royal Palace | Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art
