The Chateau was in France so hence le chateau, rather than the castle.
It was my first European trip with my then-boyfriend/now-almost-ex-husband. We headed to France – first stop, Paris, the most romantic city in the world. Even with the constant drizzling autumn rain, we were thrilled to be in Paris, and in each other’s arms.
The City of Lights did not let us down. We spent afternoons in museums and sat at cafés, watching the world go by. We visited all the major and very famous sights and came home with rolls and rolls of film. We braved the crowds to see the famous Mona Lisa and posed with The Thinker in the gardens of Musée Rodin. We strolled from the Louvre and sat on a bench in the Jardin des Tuileries, so happy we were in Paris. Every street and alleyway was full of mystery. There was so much history. And beauty and art. Food and wine. We were like kids in a candy store.
The splurge on this trip was decidedly Chateau de Bagnols, just outside the village of Bagnols, not far from Lyon. Our suite was the Aux Bouquets Apartment, with a Louis XVI style “Lit à la polonaise” with gorgeous yellow damask hangings. It was breathtaking and indulgent.
The chateau’s grounds were beautifully manicured and tended. Lavender hung drying near the drawbridge entryway. We explored the rain soaked gardens, excited about our first stay at a chateau. When it became far too cold and wet, we took our tour inside.
By the time we returned to our room, our beds had been turned down. They had laid out our slippers by the sides of the beds. A choice of sparkling and still water, along with chocolates, awaited us. The fire was roaring and a bottle of their own vintage was served as our welcome drink. I didn’t know it at that time; Chateau de Bagnols is one of the finest vineyard chateaus in the world. And I have to say that little bottle was without comparison, beyond words. We tried to order another one; unfortunately, they had no idea what was served and we couldn’t get more. We tried. We tried many bottles later at dinner.
That night we dined at the Salles des Gardes. We ordered the pheasant though I think they felt it insufficient because they brought all sorts of appetizers. We ate and drank with wild abandon as we waited for the main. I was already quite full (and tipsy) by the time the first course of pheasant came. First course. There were maybe three. I lost track. We were so deliriously happy.
They graciously served our desserts in our room. We just could not eat anymore and frankly all the wine made me want to lie down. We did end up finishing the desserts, after having a warm bath. Sitting in our bathrobes and slippers, we were locked in a lovers’ embrace, drinking tea and feeding each other sinful bites of very decadent dessert. Warmed by each other and the blazing fire, our night alternated between excited chatter of amazement and gratitude and silent thought.
That was 2002. Nearly a decade ago. October 30, to be exact. We often fall into reminiscences about that night. The details may have become hazy with time though the feeling of the love in the air and in our hearts remains. It was magical and we are still grateful. We will always have the Chateau, a gift at a time when it really was a splurge.
